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| Written by TNR Editor, Eric Kraus |
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Join Partners for Clean Streams in conjunction with the Maumee RAP for the 4th annual Get the Lead Out! river cleanup. As the mercury rises and the spring fishing rush wanes on the Maumee, it's time to clean up after ourselves. Just an hour can make a tremendous difference.
Area anglers benefit immensely from the spring walleye & white bass runs, but unfortunately it's not without its ugly impacts. Over several weeks, volunteers work in-stream and along the banks in the areas most heavily fished (see map below) to remove piles of fishing line, lead & garbage. Help to make a difference for the Maumee River and all its inhabitants.
Clean up kits are available (while supplies last) by registering at (419) 205-5588
Formal program - complete with T-shirts and other "bonuses" - available mid-May through mid-June 2008,
but don't hesitate to help clean up the Maumee River any time . . . maybe while taking in some summer catfish or smallmouth bass fishing!
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Considering my training in aquatic ecology and natural resource management and my history with this incredible river system, I feel obligated to begin by offering some detail about the natural history of the often underestimated, often misunderstood Maumee River. The famed "Muddy Maumee" has the largest watershed of any river in the entire Great Lakes system with more than 6,300 square miles of rich farmland draining into its mainstem and ultimately into the Western Basin of Lake Erie. The fertile waterway, designated an Ohio State Scenic River in 1974, originates at the confluence of the St. Joseph and St. Marys Rivers in Fort Wayne, Indiana. While its massive drainage area extends into portions of both Michigan and Indiana, the vast majority of the Maumee - 105 of 130 river miles - resides in northwest Ohio. The Maumee, with its 300+ named tributaries, flows northeast and ultimately discharges into Maumee Bay, Ohio’s westernmost bay on Lake Erie at the City of Toledo.
 A typical afternoon on the Maumee River in the spring.
Photo courtesy of James Knapp
Two dams (at Defiance and downstream at Grand Rapids), along with the influence of Lake Erie, impound (or restrict the flow of) large portions of the Maumee. But significant sections of free-flowing habitat still remain - especially between the City of Maumee and the Village of Grand Rapids. It's largely these stretches of rocky riffles, runs, and rapids interspersed between deep cuts in the limestone bedrock that attract large spawning runs of not just the highly sought after walleye, but also white bass, red horse, and several other Lake Erie residents.
 Click on any colored icon in the list below, and the resource will display on the map above.
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According to the Ohio Department of Natural Resources, nearly 100 warm and coolwater fish species call the Maumee their home. Walleyes and white bass are of course the biggest attractants in the spring, but both are largely migrant populations (see About the Species below). Some "resident" walleyes find water that is deep, cool, and well-oxygenated enough to stay in the river system throughout the year, but angler attention usually transitions from "glassy eyes" to other sport fish species as spring turns to summer. Smallmouth bass and catfish (both channel and flathead varieties) are mainstays through the warmer summer months. Each species supports good sizes and numbers, but because the pressure from fishermen is considerably lighter than attention given to the Lake Erie guests in the spring, the bass and catfish fisheries are not as well known or appreciated. Even less publicized are the localized (but sometimes significant) populations of other sport fish like northern pike, black and white crappies, and even steelhead trout. As is always the case with fishing, timing and location are key for these and many other species, but the point is, the Maumee supports a wealth of diversity - it's one heck of a walleye river. . . but it's not just a walleye river!
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A welcomed sight - another quality walleye netted on the
Maumee (note white tip on lower lobe of tail).
Photo courtesy of the Ohio Department of Natural Resources
In general, female walleyes grow larger than males or "jacks." Growth rates vary depending on location, and Lake Erie and its tributaries enjoy relatively rapid growth. A typical mature female walleye ranges in size from 20 to 28-inches (3 to 8 pounds) while jacks usually range from 15 to 26-inches (1 to 6 pounds). Of course, there are exceptions. The Ohio state record walleye was caught on Lake Erie in 1999. It weighed an impressive 16.19 pounds and was 33-inches in length. The world record stands at an astounding 42-inches long and a weight of just more than 25 pounds!
In Erie, male walleyes can reach sexual maturity by age 2 or 3 with females often maturing by their third or more often their fourth year. "Trophy" fish (generally considered locally to be those over 8 lbs.) are typically more than 10 years old. Walleyes in stable climates have been known to live more than 25 years.
Moving toward a limit.
Photo courtesy of James Knapp
According to the Ohio Division of Wildlife, the annual walleye run up the Maumee River is one of the largest river migrations of a freshwater sport fish east of the Mississippi River. A variety of factors trigger the spawning run of this highly sought after sport fish, but the primary cues are an increase in water temperature, river flow, and photoperiod (hours of daylight). Walleye spawn when water temperatures range from 42 - 52 degrees Fahrenheit, and pulse up the rock-strewn Maumee (and Sundusky) River(s) as the temperature of the flowing water surpasses the temperature in their respective bays of Lake Erie.
Research is ongoing to better understand what percentage of the overall Lake Erie walleye population spawns in the Maumee and Sandusky. A reduction in adequate spawning habitat (largely due to siltation from run-off) has dramatically reduced springtime runs in the Sandusky drainage over the last decade. While runs in the Maumee have maintained higher numbers, the larger river system is prone to similar risks to the vital spawning habitat. Significant spawning is also known to take place on rocky shoals of the Western Basin and beyond (including in Lake St. Clair), but unpredictable wind and weather in these open water areas can lead to inconsistent survival and variations in the strength of populations from one year to the next.
Despite the odds, the outlook for the 2008 Maumee River run remains cautiously optimistic. Walleye from a strong 2003 year class will once again dominate catches in 2008 as hatches since (especially 2004 - 2006) have underwhelmed. According to the Ohio Division of Wildlife, these fish will range from 17 to 23-inches. Female walleye from the 2003 year class will make their second trip up the river to spawn as five year olds. Larger walleyes in the 24 to 28-inch range will also be caught from the 1996, 1998, 1999, and 2001 year classes. Some 30-inch walleye may date back to year classes from the late 1980s and early 1990s. Last spring, over 90% of the catch from the Maumee River were male walleyes averaging nearly 19-inches in length.
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Overview
Although you will see plenty of small boats (typically 18 feet or smaller) and bank anglers on the Maumee during the spring run, the vast majority of the fishing pressure for walleyes comes from a fleet of nomadic fishermen in chest waders. No matter the setting, casting is the name of the game, and gear is largely consistent for both boaters and those who fish on foot.
If I had to pick any set-up to catch Maumee River walleyes, this is what I would choose:
- ROD: A 6' 2" medium weight, fast action graphite spinning rod (I use either an Abu Garcia® when I need to cast a bit heavier or a St. Croix® when I can go lighter; either way, it doesn't have to be expensive) - keep in mind that a wide variety of rod weights and lengths will catch fish; I see rods from 5' 6" to 7' 6" out there - this is just my preference to optimize casting, feel, and fun
- REEL: A decent quality, medium action spinning reel with front and/or rear drag and "anti-reverse" - a switch typically on the rear of the reel that allows a fisherman to switch from a forward to a backward retrieve instantly (I often use Shimano's Sedona®; but again, it doesn't have to break the bank) - again, baitcasting and even close-faced reels will work - medium-sized spinning reels are just what I see as the best alternative
Other essential equipment for the (wading) river fisherman includes:
- TERMINAL TACKLE: 1/8 to 3/4 ounce leadhead "jigs" with 3-inch chartreuse "tails" or "grubs," floating jigheads, split shot and sliding sinkers, barrel swivels (there's a lot of room for discussion here, so I'll elaborate below)
- LINE: Reliable 6 - 10 lb. test monofilament line: the keys here are strength, abrasion resistance, thickness (diameter), and to a certain extent, color/visibility (again, see more details below)
- WADERS: 3-5 mil neoprene chest waders with thick soled boots that offer traction and enough room for plenty of layering for the early season (don't forget an external belt for safety in case of a fall)
- LANDING NET: Short-handled varieties with an 18 - 24" opening usually suffice! (chorded so that it can be connected to your wader belt)
- OTHER ESSENTIALS/HELPFULS: Valid fishing license (in waterproof ziplock bag), brimmed hat (sun protection), sunglasses, needle-nose pliers, fingernail clippers, file/hook sharpener, 5-gallon bucket (to carry extra gear, pick up litter, and bring a catch back to the car), rope or chain stringer (see regulations for daily bag information), and a cooler with ice (depending on if you plan to keep, and how far you are from home)
I hold firm that "the lighter the better" yields the best results on the Maumee - lighter rod, lighter line, and lighter terminal tackle. Plus, going light will make fishing a heck of a lot more fun once you make a connection with a walleye!
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Terminal Tackle - Jigs and Tails
 Photo courtesy of James Knapp
Visit any jig vendor and you will see that jig tails or grubs are as diverse as the thousands of fishermen who descend on the river each year to buy and cast them. Color, pattern, and length all vary, and to a certain extent, any and all will work. As a general rule of thumb, I default to a 3-inch classic twister tail in either "clear chartreuse" (a transparent neon yellow) or what I call "cloudy chartreuse" (an opaque variety of a similar color). Even this single color alone can be confusing. Should it include gold flecks? What about black flecks? Should it be salted or scented? Again, all of the above will likely trick a walleye or two, but my feeling is that a plain 3-inch tail in a bright color will be consistently productive if given enough time. Other colors that I have had good success with over the years include: plain white, glow white, yellow, orange, red, red/white, "motor oil," pink, and black. Grub colors also have adopted more glamorous names like: Christmas lights, Tiger, Sunkist, and Salt & Pepper. For many fishermen, expanding on this list and experimenting with each is a big part of the fun of river walleye fishing on the Maumee.
While tail specifications can be a decision making process that can go on for an eternity, deciding on the appropriate weight is really the most critical decision for success. First off, if avoidable, do not use a snap or swivel directly above your jig - instead, tie directly to the eye of the jig itself. Secondly, read the water to determine the appropriate weight to cast. As you read on (and fish more), you should gain a better understanding as to why this is so important, but I generally feel that 1/8, 1/4, and 3/8 ounce weights are the real workhorses of the walleye run. If the river is running fast, there are times when 1/2, 5/8, or even 3/4 ounce weights are necessary, but this is usually more of an exception than a rule. In the same way, there are times when the water is low (and slow) that a 1/16 ounce presentation is plenty adequate.
Even subtle variations in lure weight can make the difference between catching fish and wrestling rocks, so if you are unsuccessful for more than 15 minutes, make a change. One trick worth trying is to distribute the weight on your line - meaning a 1/4 ounce jig with a 1/4 ounce split shot two-feet up the line will not behave the same as a 1/2 ounce jig alone - distributing the weight increases the drag on the lure and reduces the contact with the bottom, which can sometimes be the ticket that will get you into walleye.
Over the last decade, a modification to the traditional leadhead jig approach has evolved to offer a great number of fishermen some relief from the days of sinking a pound of lead into the river in just a few short hours of fishing. In some respects, it works on the same principal as the weight distribution theory described above. The Carolina rig - a forward weighted set-up that puts a sliding weight 18 - 36" ahead of a floating jighead - has dramatically altered how many fish walleye (and even white bass) on the Maumee. While some say it's a science of its own, fishing with "floaters" is certainly worth experimentation. The good news is, many of the same rules apply; the challenge is that this subtle change on the end of the line can mean re-learning when a contact is a rock and when it's a fish.
Traditional leadhead jig (1/4 oz.),
"cloudy chartreuse" tail
Photos by Eric Kraus. |
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Floating jig - Carolina rig (1/4 oz.),
"clear chartreuse" tail |
Casting & Retrieving
Whether you fish the old style (leadheads) or the new (floaters), the goal again remains the same - keep the hook in front of the fish and out of the rocks. Whether fishing out of a boat or on foot, success depends on casting placement and retrieval method. Start by standing so your shoulders are about parallel with the current. I tend to orient myself so that I am facing slightly upstream of true parallel, but the point is, you should not be facing directly upstream or down (especially if the current is strong where you’re standing or if you are shoulder to shoulder with other fishermen).
Common etiquette dictates that you should cast your jig (independent of the rig) either straight out, just slightly downstream, or just slightly upstream when others are around you. I refer to straight out as 12:00. If you want to vary your presentation but you are standing in the same place, try alternating between 12:00 (straight out), 11:00 (slightly downstream), and 1:00 (slightly upstream). This slight variation in the trajectory of your cast can make a profound difference on where your jig ends up (and whether or not a walleye is in position to see it and hit it!). If you are fortunate enough to have some river to yourself, don't be afraid to alter the angle of your cast even more - just be aware that the further upstream you cast, the higher the probability of snagging the bottom.
I have found that casting slightly upstream often allows a few seconds of additional time in the strike zone. This subtle adjustment can make all the difference between leaving with an empty stringer and leaving with a heavy one. Again, the challenge is that if you cast too far up, you will either interfere with a neighbor or get the hook stuck on the rocks as it bounces downstream.
Another opportunity to experiment comes with casting distance. Human nature seems to dictate that if the fish aren't biting where I'm casting, cast further out! While this can be the case, keep in mind that the walleyes are often directly in front of you (sometimes literally right under your feet!), and hits are harder to detect with more line out.
You should also be willing to vary your retrieval so that you can match the presentation with the walleyes' aggressiveness. Many fishermen simply orient their rod tip straight out and keep their retrieval constant independent of conditions (and results). My suggestion is to keep your rod tip nearly parallel to the water, typically facing upstream (2:00 or even 3:00, if space allows). Depending on current speed, you may need to speed up to maintain a feel for where your jig is located. Reel slowly for a few casts, and if that pace does not result in a strike, try speeding up. If that doesn't produce, try "swimming" the jig by sweeping the rod tip upstream (toward 3:00) and then reeling to pick up the slack in the line as you lower the rod toward 12:00. Often times, it is when the jig is given the chance to ride the current for this split second that a fish commits to hit the lure.
Independent of how I'm reeling, I focus on trying to feel what the jig is doing as it moves downstream because even a subtle contact can be a fish. [NOTE: As the water warms and more fish complete the spawning process, strikes tend to be more aggressive. But especially early on in the season, and especially for fishermen new to the river, it can be difficult to tell the difference between a fish, a bounce off a rock, and a snag. Especially when developing a feel for the difference, if you question the source of resistance, set the hook. You can set the hook firmly without setting it so hard that a jig will never come out of the rocks if it turns out to have been a snag. If it was in fact a fish, you'll know it! Just hold your rod upstream (again, 2:00 or 3:00) for two to three seconds. If you feel a throbbing head bob, you're in business.]
The number one tip that I can give from my experience is PAY ATTENTION to where you cast. Look for variations in the water's surface and aim for different spots (e.g. edges of rapids, downstream ends of pools, transitions between slow and fast water, etc.). If you are casting at the same area for an hour or more, you should learn the water pretty well. If you catch a fish in one spot, pay attention as you're fishing so that you can return the jig to that exact location with repetition. If one walleye was there, there's a good chance that there are more walleyes where that came from!
Line
Before we move on to some final tips, a bit more on fishing line - just because I think it's important (it is the critical link between you and the walleye, after all).
 Photo courtesy of the
Ohio Department of Natural Resources
If you have to break off on a snag, PLEASE do all that you can to leave as little line in the water as possible - see the following section for a great tip that will help you remove snags without loosing jigs (or line!).
Finally, if you re-spool your reel DO NOT leave your discarded line on the bank or in the river. We, as fishermen, have to be responsible stewards of the natural resources if we want to have resources to enjoy in the future. As we all know, monofilament and braided lines and wildlife don't play nicely together. As with all other items that you take to the water, if it comes in with you, make sure it goes out!
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This section is intentionally a catch-all . . . a brain dump of other pieces of related information intended to help you be more effective as a Maumee River spring fishermen. The items might seem disjointed, but collectively, I hope they help you enjoy your experience and catch more fish!
Reduce the Tail Length
I'll start with a particularly obscure pointer, but you'll be glad you know it once it works for you. If you are feeling strikes but are unable to hook the fish, try biting off 1/2-inch of the "head" side of your twister tail so that it shortens its overall length without hurting its action. You will be amazed at how this tiny adjustment can lead to hooked fish!
Rod Tip Position
Many people want to keep their rod tip high in the sky because it often makes it easier to feel jig contact with the river bottom. By contrast, my suggestion is try to keep your rod tip down toward the water's surface but facing slightly upstream both when retrieving a jig and when landing a fish. This will reduce your hang-ups with rocks and will also make it easier to keep consistent pressure on a fish as you are landing it. When it comes to landing a walleye, keep in mind that the fish may take a final burst when it gets close, so be ready with a landing net or an open hand once it's inside ten feet from your rod tip. Also keep in mind that you can take more liberties in retrieving your lure (with or without a fish) if you aren’t tightly surrounded by other fishermen. If you are in close quarters, read on . . .
Proximity to Other Fishermen
 Photo courtesy of James Knapp
Part of staying in synch means falling in line with those around you. Don't hold too far back behind an established line of fishermen unless there is no one below you, and don't venture out beyond a line of walleye anglers unless there aren't people fishing upstream of you. Keep in mind everyone else in the river is trying to catch fish (and have fun), too!
Snagging Fish
Any time you put tens of thousands of large fish in a concentrated location with current flowing by them, anglers are going to "snag" or foul-hook some of these fish. Especially when the water is cooler and walleye are less actively feeding (and more actively spawning), hooking a fish somewhere other than in the mouth is fairly common. In most cases, if you set the hook and find that you are very hard-pressed to retrieve the fish, it is snagged. Until you can see that a fish is foul-hooked, it makes sense to treat it like it's in the mouth (or “legal”), but if you can confirm that it is snagged, do your best to carefully land the fish, gently remove the hook, and release the walleye. Except for the largest walleyes, most mouth-hooked fish "throb" or shake their heads when first hooked and then cooperate during much of the retrieval (often until they get close to your waders!). If you consistently find yourself snagging fish, try casting a lighter weight and/or switching tail colors to trigger strikes.
Keep in mind that putting a snagged fish on your stringer is illegal. A fleet of DNR wardens - sometimes in uniform, sometimes not - are always on the lookout to enforce this and other important regulations. Obey the regulations, they're established to protect the resource!
Removing a Jig from a Snag
It can make for a pretty frustrating outing when walleyes aren't biting and the river bottom is gobbling up jigs, but a couple simple tricks can save lots of gear and headaches. The first tip comes right from the hook set. If you think you feel a fish, set the hook firmly but not so hard that you are lodging your hook permanently into an underwater crevice. Setting the hook blindly is just asking for trouble (and it's really not necessary if the fish is legal). When you fish in a rocky bottomed river with weighted lures, snags are inevitable.
If you find yourself snagged, the first thing you should try is to take off some of the pressure, raise your rod tip high in the air, and give it a few short, quick tugs. If this action alone doesn't loosen the jig, remove a little more tension so that you can drop your rod tip toward the water's edge (and out of other people's way). Next, real in the slack so that your line is taught but not overly tight. Raise your rod tip again, but this time, give the rod a decent bend. Holding the line with the pointer finger of the hand that you use to hold the rod, quickly open the bail (with your off hand), and simultaneously release the line with your finger. This sudden release of pressure (opposite of the direction in which the jig was snagged) often frees the lure. If this doesn't work, repeat this procedure two or three times, and then as a final effort, return to the first process (short tugs with the rod tip raised high).
If all else fails, reel in all available slack so the line is tight to the snag. Grasp the line with your off hand just above the reel. Point your rod tip directly at the snag so that your rod does not bare the tension of the line (so your rod doesn't break!). Finally, back up slightly - holding the line - until the jig either dislodges or the line breaks (usually near the knot rather than somewhere in between). These steps will become second nature, and they keep a lot of line and lead out of the river. In a typical season I don't loose more than 30 jigs to snags, and usually I loose considerably fewer (less than a dozen last year).
Time of Day
Anyone who fishes the Maumee for walleyes with regularity is going to have their favorite spots and their favorite times to fish. For me, any time of day when water conditions are suitable is worth a shot, but I have the most historical success either the first two hours after sunrise or the last two hours before sunset. This has largely been due to the fact that these times coincide with my available windows of opportunity (as is the case for many others), but it also coincides nicely with two active times of day for walleyes. Regulations mandate that anglers can only fish between sunrise and sunset from March 1 through the last day of April. This is largely to protect actively spawning fish that often stage to reproduce during twilight and hours of darkness. Experiment with different times of day if you have the luxury to do so, but be prepared that walleye tend to congregate early and late each day.
Water Level
By now, you should have a better appreciation that water conditions are absolutely critical to how a fisherman should approach fishing walleyes (or any species) on the Maumee. Water level (and current speed), water clarity, and water temperature are all key factors dictating where the fish will be and how they will behave. Attention to these details, and adjusting accordingly, can make or break an outing.
The I-475 bridge that crosses the river at Side Cut Metropark offers the general public a snapshot of current water levels. Unless one's eyes are trained to know what a given location will look like at different levels, the concrete bridge support (that faces the park on River Road) literally provides a measuring stick. The piling is graduated at one foot intervals starting at "0" and moving up to about "15".
The "0" marker on the bridge correlates with 580 feet above sea level and indicates what most consider to be "standard" flow (even though summertime flows are routinely a foot or more below the "0" marker). Good fishing access is available when water levels are less than 585 feet, but access conditions are best when the river is 582 feet or less. Even subtle changes in water level (e.g. a few inches) can have significant impact on fishing (and safety), so use caution and always error on the side of being conservative (see SAFETY).
These levels change often, so it's good habit to check with regularity. Use the realtime data on the right margin of this page (toward the top) as a daily indicator of conditions. Because our water level data is updated every hour, it makes sense to bookmark this page and check back with us before every outing to see what you're in for on the water.
Water levels should dictate where you choose to fish, and until you begin developing a pattern, the best method is probably to follow the crowds and then pick a specific location from there. Again, use good judgment and don't just plow into unfamiliar water until you figure out new surroundings.
Safety
Because of the Maumee's immense drainage area, as little as a few tenths of an inch of rain or equivalent snow melt (especially in the upper reaches of the watershed) can significantly change water levels (and clarity) downstream. Keep in mind that Toledo can stay dry for days or even weeks, but if rain is falling upstream (especially to the south and west toward Indiana), the Maumee will respond accordingly. This is especially important when wading to areas that vary significantly in water depth. Make sure that if you can wade out to a spot, you know a safe way to wade back - even if the water goes up some while you are fishing. If you're in a boat or even if you're in waders, wear a life jacket and fish with a friend.
One good trick when wading a good distance from the bank is to leave an empty, bright-colored 5-gallon bucket right at the waterline when you begin fishing. Check on it periodically (at least hourly). If you see the water level changing (or if your bucket is now barreling down stream!), act accordingly to safely get back to shore. Especially if you are on a point or island (like Bluegrass), make sure that you are aware of water level changes that may be occurring while you are fishing. Just because you got to your spot comfortably doesn't necessarily mean that you will return as easily.
Part of what makes the Maumee River so attractive to incoming walleyes - the expansive and irregular limestone river bottom - is also what makes the waterway notoriously dangerous to unsuspecting wader fishermen. Rather than taking normal steps in the water when wading, shorten your stride and slide your feet so that your weight is evenly balanced. You never know when your next step will be off the edge of a two foot rock edge!
Keep in mind that when you turn in the current to move or leave the river (especially if you've been in the same place for an extended period of time), your balance may be compromised momentarily. The key is not to panic. Try to reduce the surface area of your body as it relates to the current - that is, try not to turn directly into or away from the flow of the current. If you're feet begin to slide on the bottom, spread your arms to help maintain your balance, spread your feet shoulder width apart, and take it slow. Try to get into shallower water (preferably knee deep or less) quickly but carefully. If you do happen to fall, be willing to sacrifice some equipment rather than your life.
Regulations
This summary is by no means meant to replace or supersede the regulations established and maintained by the Ohio Department of Natural Resources Division of Wildlife. Here are some essential pieces of information to know wading in:
From March 1 - April 30, 2008:
- Fishing on the Maumee River is legal from sunrise to sunset via public access points or private access (with permission) with a valid Ohio fishing license (see map above for access points)
- Only single hooks that are ½-inch or smaller (point to shank) are permitted - NO TREBLE HOOKS - only one hook per line
- All fish not hooked from inside the mouth, out ("foul-hooked" or "snagged") must be released to the water immediately
- The daily possession limit of walleye is 4 fish per angler; anglers may NOT possess fish caught by other fishermen
- Walleyes must be at least 15" in length to be kept
From May 1 - February 28, 2009:
- No time restriction on fishing in the Maumee
- No specific hook limitations, trebles permitted
- All fish not hooked from inside the mouth, out ("foul-hooked" or "snagged") must be released to the water immediately
- The daily possession limit of walleye is 6 fish per angler; anglers may NOT possess fish caught by other fishermen
- Walleyes must be at least 15" in length to be kept
Again, for complete regulations, see the official Division of Wildlife web site.
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Eric Kraus, TNR Editor
Literally from the time I weighed enough to keep myself up in the current, I was wading in with the masses to partake in the annual tradition that is the spring walleye run. While I know full well that there are plenty out there with many more years of experience, I can say with confidence that I've put in my time to learn how this species operates when it comes to spawning on the Great Lakes' largest tributary. When I was still in school, I fished an average of sixty days on the river between February and May , often getting up before class only to return to the water for the last few hours of the day.
Based on my outdoor journal, I put in more than 200 hours of fishing over a twelve week period each spring from 1992 - 1998, just on the Maumee. During the peak of the run, (despite being a full-time student) I could put in as many as 40 hours of fishing in a single week! Boy, was life simpler then!
All this time in the water has lead to a good number of fish in my landing net. All tolled, I've landed over 800 Maumee River walleyes. Does this make me an expert? Not by any means. My hope is simply that this information will help hone the skills of those who fish the Maumee River with regularity and help encourage those who have rarely or never tried it to give it a chance. It truly is one heck of a natural resource!
As the seasons begrudgingly transition from winter to spring, let TNR help get you geared up. Winter came late once again this year, so hopefully once we get the snow melted, we can get this open-water season firing on all cylinders.
Here's to a Safe, Fun 2008 Run - Good Fishing!
Eric Kraus,
TNR Editor
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EXPLORE MORE OHIO TITLES
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08/20/2008: 12:00 AM
579.14 ft. | 08/20/2008: 1:00 AM
579.15 ft. | 08/20/2008: 2:00 AM
579.17 ft. | 08/20/2008: 3:00 AM
579.16 ft. | 08/20/2008: 4:00 AM
579.17 ft. | 08/20/2008: 5:00 AM
579.18 ft. | 08/20/2008: 6:00 AM
579.19 ft. | 08/20/2008: 7:00 AM
579.19 ft. | 08/20/2008: 8:00 AM
579.2 ft. | 08/20/2008: 9:00 AM
579.21 ft. | 08/20/2008: 10:00 AM
579.21 ft. | 08/20/2008: 11:00 AM
579.21 ft. | 08/20/2008: 12:00 PM
579.19 ft. |
*Original data adjusted by TNR.
Data courtesy of the USGS.
| | New Feature! | Hide Water
Level Predictions | | Predicted Levels: | Date: 08/20/2008
Time: 1:00 PM
Level: 579.2 ft.
| Date: 08/20/2008
Time: 7:00 PM
Level: 579.2 ft.
| Date: 08/21/2008
Time: 1:00 AM
Level: 579.2 ft.
| Date: 08/21/2008
Time: 7:00 AM
Level: 579.2 ft.
| Date: 08/21/2008
Time: 1:00 PM
Level: 579.2 ft.
| Date: 08/21/2008
Time: 7:00 PM
Level: 579.2 ft.
| Date: 08/22/2008
Time: 1:00 AM
Level: 579.2 ft.
| Date: 08/22/2008
Time: 7:00 AM
Level: 579.2 ft.
| Date: 08/22/2008
Time: 1:00 PM
Level: 579.2 ft.
| Date: 08/22/2008
Time: 7:00 PM
Level: 579.2 ft.
| Date: 08/23/2008
Time: 1:00 AM
Level: 579.2 ft.
| Date: 08/23/2008
Time: 7:00 AM
Level: 579.2 ft.
| Date: 08/23/2008
Time: 1:00 PM
Level: 579.2 ft.
| Date: 08/23/2008
Time: 7:00 PM
Level: 579.2 ft.
| Date: 08/24/2008
Time: 1:00 AM
Level: 579.2 ft.
| Date: 08/24/2008
Time: 7:00 AM
Level: 579.2 ft.
| Date: 08/24/2008
Time: 1:00 PM
Level: 579.2 ft.
| Date: 08/24/2008
Time: 7:00 PM
Level: 579.2 ft.
| Date: 08/25/2008
Time: 1:00 AM
Level: 579.2 ft.
| Date: 08/25/2008
Time: 7:00 AM
Level: 579.2 ft.
|
*Original data adjusted by TNR. Data courtesy of the NOAA. |
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